This region is shaped by water, something I increasingly understood each morning as a light-but-persistent rain greeted me as I exited my cabin.
Hanging glaciers cling to the sides of these imposing peaks, transforming low into majestic waterfalls that crescendo down vertigo-inducing vertical valleys and then dive into the current in a continual stream of renewal. When the sun does shine from above, the deep greens of this temperature rainforest contrast with the turquoise inlets and make it obvious why writers from Jack London to Ernestine Hayes have drawn inspiration from this region. Here, snowcapped, 2,000-foot peaks rise from the fjords to create barrier islands guarding the arms and passageways of the Alexander Archipelago from the rough-and-tumble Pacific Ocean to the west. Also calling this area home are the Tsimshian, whose native lands stretch as far east as the Skeena River valley. It is the home of the Tlingit and Haida peoples, each known today for elaborate totem poles telling the story of the region and its people. Alaska’s Inner Passage is a wild place, alive in constant evolution.
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